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It’s gumbo weather

Fall is starting to arrive here in South Louisiana… the temperature is finally dropping into the 70’s during the day and everyone is breaking out the winter clothing. Hey, it’s South Louisiana – you have to be careful to avoid splashing hot oil on your legs when you’re wearing shorts while you’re frying your Thanksgiving turkey.

People down here describe this weather as being “gumbo weather”. So, in that spirit, here’s my favorite gumbo recipe. It’s adapted from one that John Folse included in one of his cookbooks. It’s a bit complicated but mais, cher’, it’s good. If you can’t get good oysters, feel free to use shrimp.

Duck and Sausage Gumbo

4 (1 ½ pound) mallards or similar ducks
4 ½ qt. water
3 ribs celery, cut into chunks
1 carrot, cut into half
15 peppercorns
4 bay leaves
1 ¼ t. salt
1 t. dried thyme
¼ t. garlic powder
¼ t. red pepper flakes
¾ c. all-purpose flour
¾ c. vegetable oil
2 c. chopped onions
2 c. chopped celery
1 c. chopped green bell pepper
2 carrots, sliced
1 T. chopped garlic
1 lb. andouille or similar smoked sausage, cut into slices
2/3 c. oyster liquor
1/3 c. port
2 bay leaves
½ t. freshly ground black pepper
¼ t. cayenne pepper
2 doz. Oysters
½ c. chopped green onion tops
¼ c. chopped fresh parsley
steamed rice
File’ powder


Combine the ducks and all other ingredients in a stockpot. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 to 4 hours or until the ducks are tender. Remove the ducks and chop, discarding the skin and bones. Strain the stock into a container discarding the solids. Chill until the fat has congealed on the stock. Remove the fat and reserve for other purposes (Potatoes fried in duck fat, while quite deadly from a coronary aspect, are quite tasty).


Make a roux with the flour and water in a large heavy pot. Add the vegetables and garlic. Cook until vegetables are tender. Add 3 quarts of the duck stock, reserved duck meat, the sausage, oyster liquor, port, bay leaves, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Stir in the oysters, green onion tops, and parsley. Cook for 10 minutes longer. Remove and discard bay leaves. Ladle the gumbo over steamed rice to serve. Sprinkle with file’ powder if desired.

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